How to do Paris on the cheap
Paris may be the most visited city in the world, yet it's also one of
the most expensive.
"This city is worth the price," says veteran tourist Alex Wadkin, 71, a
retiree from Dublin, Ireland, sipping a 4 Euro ($A8) cup of coffee on
the Champs-Elysees.
"If you avoid expensive neighbourhoods - like this one - you'll do
alright. But the key is to plan ahead."
For travellers on a budget, the choices can be tough: stay in a
far-flung suburb and eat a baguette for every meal, or leave happy but
broke. Yet for those in the know, there are plenty of cheap - and even
free - ways to enjoy the city.
THE SIGHTS: The Eiffel Tower may be impossible to miss for any
self-respecting tourist, but it costs 12 Euro ($A24.50) to reach the top
and long lines leave you exhausted by the time you reach the celebrated
view.
Instead, do as the Parisians do: come in the evening, pack a picnic, and
sit on the sprawling lawns surrounding it to watch the sunset and admire
the tower alight at night, sparkling every hour for 10 minutes.
For a great view of Paris, just hike up to the top of Montmartre and sit
on the Sacre-Coeur Basilica's steps overlooking the city.
THE MUSEUMS: Unless you plan on spending most of your time in museums -
which, granted, is possible among the dozens of great museums in Paris -
the museum passes (two, four or six days) may not save you much. Better
compare prices first at http://www.parismuseumpass.com.
Try to time your visit to include the first Sunday of the month, when
the Louvre and all the major museums are free. And students, always have
your ID card on you.
Don't discount a couple of smaller free museums. Le Musee Carnavalet has
lots to offer: located in the gorgeous Marais neighbourhood, it retraces
Paris' rich history, from the Revolution to today. Meanwhile the Petit
Palais, an architectural beauty in the heart of Paris, shows off
collections from Paris in the 1900s all the way back to antiquity.
For photography fans, the gates surrounding the Luxembourg gardens host
free open-air exhibits featuring stunning large-scale photography from
around the world. And don't forget to go into the park, where Parisians
hang out by the fountain, get a tan, and listen to free music on summer
weekends.
THE SOUNDS: Paris boasts not one, but two, world-class opera houses.
Good seating remains prohibitively expensive, but if you reserve early
and don't mind craning your neck a bit, there are seats for Seven Euro
($A14.30) and 10 Euro ($A20.40).
For the under-28 crowd, last-minute tickets - sometimes for coveted
seats - can also reach low prices. These are sold 15 minutes before the
start of the show. The Opera Bastille reserves 62 standing-room tickets
at Five Euro ($A10.20), on sale as soon as doors open, generally 90
minutes before starting time.
And for a musical Notre Dame, drop in on Sunday afternoon starting at
4.30pm, when free organ concerts bring out the cathedral's sacred
atmosphere.
THE WANDERING: The cheapest and most satisfying way to see the city is
on your own. A year ago, Paris debuted an extensive system of rental
bikes that you can help yourself to for just one Euro ($A2), credit card
only, a day at numerous spots all over town. Velib', as they are called,
are a great way to wander around the city independently. However Paris
traffic can get pretty hairy, and the bikes don't come with helmets, so
stay alert.
If cycling isn't your thing, hop on a bus and see where it goes. Weekly
passes, which also work on the metro, are well worth investing in. Some
scenic bus lines include numbers 24 (goes by the Seine, the Louvre,
Notre Dame, several bridges, the Eiffel Tower, the Champs-Elysees) and
30 (the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Elysees, the
Moulin Rouge, Sacre Coeur).
And there is always the Seine River. Try the Batobus - it's 12 Euro
($A24.50), but unlike other flyboats its tickets are good for a whole
day, and you can hop on and off with ease at eight top sightseeing
spots.
THE FOOD: Food and drink are tricky to budget for in cuisine capital
Paris, but if you stray away from touristy streets, there are cheap eats
to be had.
For typically French food, no need to go to expensive restaurants,
either. Try Le Bouillon Chartier (7 rue du Faubourg Montmartre, metro
Grands Boulevards), not just for its stunning art deco interior but for
its simple, affordable fare. Or pick up a traditional French picnic at
La Cantine de Quentin (52 rue Bichat, metro Goncourt), and walk over to
the lovely Saint Martin Canal.
Try street food in the atmospheric Latin Quarter, or fixed-price lunch
menus, cheaper than their dinnertime counterparts.
For gourmet ice cream with a view, try Berthillon, at the tip of the Ile
Saint Louis, a little island in the middle of the Seine.
Or peruse Paris' traditional outdoor markets. One of the best and least
expensive is the Belleville market, between Avenue de Menilmontant and
Avenue de la Villette, on Tuesdays and Fridays.
THE ROOM: If you're staying for a week or even just a few days,
short-term rentals found on Craigslist can be a lot cheaper than hotels.
For an intermediary and a bit more peace of mind, the one-woman company
Alcove & Agaves will set you up in lovely Parisian homes -http://www.bed-and-breakfast-in-paris.com.
If you can afford to, avoid budget hotels or rentals in the suburbs of
Paris, as you'll waste too much time on transportation. Lastly, if you
find a place so cheap it doesn't come with an internet connection, take
heart: there are free wi-fi spots all over Paris, including in many
public parks - visit http://www.wifi.paris.fr. |
